![]() Screw on the vacuum box and you’re ready to rout. Reinstall the fence over the router and incrementally raise a slightly larger bit through the hole and into the fence. Pivot the fence over the router and mark the center of the bit. Then create clearance for the router bit ( Photo 7). Install the pivot fence and make sure its face is absolutely square to the table’s surface ( Photo 6). Then raise a larger router bit through the hole and into the fence to create a suitable opening for routing and chip removal. Mark the location of the router bit and drill a pilot hole through the bottom of the fence at that point. This orientation makes the table more versatile: The short side works for most routing operations the long side provides additional support for large pieces such as door panels.ħ. Locate the plate on the table so it’s centered between the sides and offset toward the front edge. The table’s dimensions can vary, but I prefer a large surface, with at least 12″ of support on both the infeed and outfeed side of the bit.Ĭlamp the table with one end overhanging your bench, so you can rout the hole for the router plate. A), which must be absolutely flat and very rigid. The first step is to choose a suitable piece for the table (A, Fig. This method is very accurate, too, so it’s suitable to use on even the most deluxe router table. The method I use to install the router plate is nearly foolproof, and it’ll work for any square or rectangular router plate (the one shown here came from Rockler, see Source). They include zero clearance inserts for safer routing and they make it even easier to put the router table away when I’m done with it. To make your own, you’ll need a router plate and a plunge router equipped with a template guide. This table takes only an hour or two to build, and it can last for years. Cast aluminium table with twin measurement scales Non-latching UK 230V switchbox & router trigger clamp for controlling router power For use with standard. It has an aluminum router plate and a pivoting fence with dust collection. One thing that has changed, however, is that the router table I use today is more sophisticated. I still like the convenience of a router table that I can quickly disassemble and store, so I don’t lose the floor space that a stationary router table would require. I simply clamped the plywood to a workbench, installed the router and bit, clamped on a board as a fence, and let her rip. My first was just a router base screwed to the underside of a piece of plywood. While many woodworkers spend weekends making stationary router tables, mine have always been very simple, driven by expediency, and the desire to get other things done.
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